Ice Climbing on Fox Glacier, March 2nd & 3rd

I was hanging out in the Golden Bay area when Tasha invited me to meet at Fox Glacier for some ice climbing. It was time to see some more of the West Coast and I was excited to get back together with my friends and do something fun. John and I headed down to Fox Glacier on Saturday afternoon after breaking our toys in Hokitika; I guess that was as good a sign as any that we should do something different. Tasha and Paul Barr met us at the Backpackers where we had booked a room for the weekend. They arrived bearing lots of food and refreshments so we immediately gathered in the kitchen to start cooking and catching up. New Zealand is set up well for travelling; the Backpackers Hostels and Holiday Parks usually have nice kitchens, dining areas, media rooms, and lounges to hang out in whether you are staying in a room or sleeping in a van or tent; most also have internet for a reasonable price. We had a room for four which was nice and got upgraded so we had our own bathroom and kitchenette; not a bad place to spend a few days. The weather wasn't great on Sunday but we went up to the glacier in spite of it. Unfortunately we were short one set of crampons so Tasha volunteered to sit out the day which was sad but since it was rainy I think she may have been the smart one. We arrived in the car park and pulled in next to a woman who was fixing breakfast in the back of her vehicle. I jumped out and said something like "It's breakfast time", she looked at me and said "I know you"; it was Emily and Steve from England who I had picked up at the north end of the Heaphy Track and given a ride to Takaka. It's a small world and an even smaller New Zealand. Emily told me that in New Zealand you see everyone twice. Following a brief reunion, Paul, John and I geared up and hiked up to the glacier. Paul had done some guiding on the glaciers (Fox and Franz Josef) and is very knowledgeable and experienced; we are fortunate to have him as a friend. He showed us where the glacier came to 3 years ago and it has receded significantly. It comes down from the Southern Alps and is, or was, about 15 Km long.  After a little wander around the glacier we found a nice hole to climb out of so Paul set up an anchor using a couple of ice screws. We were lowered into the hole and then climbed out until the rain finally convinced us to leave.

Paul found the perfect hole for climbing, nice view of the ice fall in the background

Yes, this looks good; let's lower into the abyss and climb out

Anchor set up and John is ready to lower in. Paul looks like a happy man.

John climbing

J Paul climbing

J Paul on belay duty, my shiny black jacket is soaking wet but I was happily dry inside. Love the high tech gear. Kiwis never let a little rain spoil their fun. 

Paul showing his expert technique

Looking into the abyss

When we got back to the room Tasha was keen to get some exercise so she, Paul and I drove over to Franz Josef for a hike to the Tatare Tunnel. http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/west-coast/glaciers/tatare-tunnels-walk/  The tunnel was hand excavated 500 meters through hard rock in the late 1800s to channel water through a sluice for gold mining. In 1911 it was reutilized to drive a power house for electricity. We had our lights with us so we slogged through the stream to the other end for a look. I had managed to keep my feet dry through the ice climbing but was now offically wet from top to bottom.  It was worth it though to see another interesting bit of New Zealand history and we got treated to glow worms inside the tunnel. 

Sunday morning dawned bright and sunny so Tasha, Paul and I went back to the glacier. Paul spent a little time showing Tasha how to use her crampons as she had not climbed ice before. The day before we spotted a low angle face that would be good for teaching so Paul set an anchor and we climbed until Tasha got comfortable. We then walked to the abyss and climbed the route we had done the day before. Paul then moved the anchor to a spot where I could stand at the bottom of the hole and give Tasha pointers as she climbed. I was a little nervous relinquishing the rope but had faith in my friends not to strand me. This part of the wall wasn't quite as steep although it was a tiny bit overhung at the top; Tasha climbed it like a pro. After we all had a go we decided to pack up and go for a ramble up the glacier to get a closer look at the ice fall. 

Oh what a difference a day can make. Three years earlier the glacier was up to the tree line on the opposite side and extended down to where we crossed the ropes. 

Paul teaching Tasha how to front point and use her axe. 

Mountain me with a view of the ice fall in the background. 

Tasha climbing out of the abyss

Paul belaying Tasha at the top of the climb

Me working those pointy things

Tasha at the bottom with my axes and gloves

Wandering around in the ice fall

Nice view down the valley

Despite the rain on Sunday it was another succesful adventure.  I've been fortunate to experience New Zealand in many ways and am thankful to have found friends to enjoy it with. I've found that it is always the people who make the experience special; may we have many more in the future.